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When is vegetarianism not just a salad?

May 2, 2008 by Chef Branden Lewis  
Filed under Soup to Nuts

Pasta primavera, grilled veggie salad and, God forbid, anything with iceberg lettuce. This is the selection that my vegetarian friends have to choose from nearly every time they eat out. Too often they are the victims of lazy cooks or menu planners who just don’t give them proper consideration. The fact is that vegetarians are often seen by cooks as people who don’t understand food. The stereotype: how could you choose to be a vegetarian when mouth-watering ribeye steaks, finger-licking fried chicken and salty-crunchy bacon is in ample supply? I may be risking my spot in the white coats guild by saying this, but truth be told, vegetarians generally have deeper culinary insight when it comes to their cuisine than the majority of cooks preparing it for them. As a case-in-point my veggie friend Michele, “For once I’d like to try something that I can’t make myself at home.”  

For you culinary dynamos out there, give the vegetarians credit. Day-by-day these green go-getters have to creatively think about breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s not just beans and rice or mushroom flavored ramen for them. They’re creating complex and intricate, multi-staged dishes such as braised onion tarts, balsamic-candied tomatoes, white asparagus risottos, the list goes on… and gets a might bit tastier. Veggies are always looking for the next recipe to try, the next trick to impress their friends with. So begs the question, who goes above and beyond? Pawtucket’s Garden Grill? I love their butternut squash quesadillas, but being a vegetarian restaurant, is it fair to compare them to others?
 
Probably not.
 
Places like Providence’s Julian’s, any of the Indian Restaurants (though still not fair), and El Rancho Grande stick out in my mind. Not only do they offer outstanding selections for vegetarians, but everyday meat-eating friends will be able to satisfy their hunger lust as well. 
 
Final thought: I’m not a vegetarian, but let’s just say I can see the point. A black & white memory of a very large, shiny headed chef from South Africa I once knew comes to mind. He bellows out, “You American’s think your chicken grows on trees, in cellophane packages!” The fact is that people who choose to be vegetarians because they don’t want to be the direct cause of animal suffering and death are braver than me. I care for animals, understand the food chain and yet still cannot find a good enough reason why I should stop eating meat. Perhaps it’s not all my fault though; maybe I just haven’t found the right salad.

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Comments

14 Responses to “When is vegetarianism not just a salad?”
  1. Meaghan Riley says:

    I loved this article, really makes you think! I am not a “veggie” but if there is a new and exciting veg dish on a menu I am interested and may try it! Thank you Branden for hopefully opening some eyes and maybe next time you open a menu in PVD there will be a surprise special waiting!!!

  2. Sarah says:

    Well said Chef Branden. Mother Nature has provided us with bounty. There is no need to eat meat. I don’t find it a struggle to make meals despite being a vegetarian. Perhaps because I have been one since I was 13 (almost 20 years).

  3. Barbara says:

    I enjoyed your article, Branden. I am a vegetarian. Although I can always find something to eat at most restaurants, sometimes I will have to pick two appetizers and have the waitperson serve them when everyone gets their entre. Or, I order the salad and content myself with that.
    Most creative chefs can find pleasing, nourishing meals with little effort. However, many people are still not aware of how many people there are in their restaurants who are struggling to find appropriate food choices. We simply need to tell them.
    I am vegetarian because of global warming and the effect that the cattle industry has on the atmosphere - methane from cows. I also dislike the industry that cages chicken.
    Finally, obesity in the United States has never been worse. If people would eat grains, vegetables and fruits, there would be less overweight people - and this starts with children and forming good meal habits.
    Good article.
    Barbara

  4. Ellen says:

    I can certainly understand the frustration for vegetarians dining out. They shouldn’t have to go to vegetarian restaurants just to have a selection of food. I’m not a vegetarian, but I take notice of restaurants that make an effort to provide good, interesting vegetarian choices. Some local spots that come to mind are DeWolf Tavern in Bristol and Mama Luisa’s in Newport.

  5. Chef B says:

    Thanks everyone for your resposes!

    RE: Barbara

    Your inspiration for being a vegetarian is very admirable and equally as interesting.

    Classically, the decision to replace some or all of animal proteins in one’s diet with plant-based protein alternatives has been for one or more of three primary reasons: Health, the environment, and religious traditions and ethics. Though that’s the classification system, I don’t know if I completely agree that “religious traditions and ethics” should be grouped together.

  6. Dani K. says:

    One of my roommates is a vegan, so the search for tasty, animal free products is an unending battle it seems when we decide to go out to eat. Granted finding a place with good vegan options is considerably more difficult than even those looking for that amazing vegetarian dish. However, I am becoming more and more impressed with how many places are starting to offer vegetarian and vegan options on the menu. While it seems many chefs and/or menu planners have yet to be inspired by the veggies I am hopeful we are in for a pleasant surprise in the near future.

    And it’s not because I’m a vegetarian…I’m not…I eat meat. In fact, I hated vegetables with a passion until just a few years ago when I had an internship working in a vegetarian kitchen at a private high school. The chef was amazing- the things that man could do with vegetables! The point is there are people out there who find inspiration in veggies and can pass that love onto those who eat the food. It’s just a matter of them putting that creative energy into their veg. menu items for us to indulge in. All I know is that I now find myself trying veg. options more often than not…even when meat is offered…just to see if they have improved upon their methods and made vegetables that much better. I think everyone should tempt their inner vegetarian more often. You may be surprised at what you find you actually enjoy eating…

    … but honestly, I still hate salad.

  7. Dani K. says:

    We can only hope that soon Americans will start to lean toward eating these healthier options and away from fast food, junk food, and even all those unbalanced fad diets. Maybe if there were more options that people could be interested in, perhaps they would be more willing to evaluate what they put into their bodies.

  8. mary astudillo says:

    I’m always interested in new and sophisticated veggie dishes. The braised onion tarts, balsamic-candied tomatoes, and white asparagus risotto sound tantilizing and delicious compared to the customary steamed broccoli and carrots. Hopefully these multi-staged dishes will become mainstream alongside tender fish and meat offerings. We should not have to search out Vegan restaurants to get great greens and vegtables. Power to the Plant.

  9. Dave Gracer says:

    Good article, but you’re begging the question. First, your JWU courses told you about the science of menu choices: the high-falutin veggie options aren’t on the menu b/c the restauranteurs are convinced that the public won’t choose them often enough to justify the cost of having them. Even if that’s not the case [and I'm not yet convinced that it's not the case] their perceptions, however archaic, determine menus. What do people think about this idea?

    I’m curious to learn what percentage of American adults are vegetarian, and what percentage of the restaurant-visiting public they represent. My point is once again trying to understand the rationale those eatery-owners are using. I think that they think that if joe diner is spending $$ on a night out, he or she WANTS MEAT.

    In 2004 I went to a wedding reception at Gatehouse Restaurant; the couple was/is vegetarian, and had conducted extensive consultations with several high-end places. The great variety of dishes at the reception were all veggie, and delicious. If a quorum of folks went to this place and asked about the dishes served at that very successful event, then the people there might be inclined to put a few on the menu. Just a thought…

  10. jackson patel says:

    WOW… I can totally relate to this article; me being vegetarian all almost all my life (religious reasons) every time I go out to eat with my friends feels like I m a problem for them as they have to be very careful in selecting the places that offers good veggie choices on their menu (and when I say vegetarian dishes I don’t mean boiled or grilled veggies…PLEASE)……they have tried to convince me number of times to eat meat but I refuse to give in…I just wish more and more restaurants in this country recognize the need of putting some nice meat less offerings in their menu also the need of educating their chef’s and staff about people who eats vegetarian food and people who are vegetarian due to religion (big difference boi….). …thx

  11. Colleen says:

    I have struggled since a young child on whether I am alright with eating meat or not. Even though vegetarians are not in the majority, I would love to see more vegetarian options because sometimes I just don’t want meat. I am a non-vegetarian with vegetarian tendencies so to all you chefies out there, don’t be afraid of skipping the meat. You might be surprised with the creativity that vegetarian entrees can inspire.

  12. Chef Branden Lewis says:

    Sorry guys, so much to reply too:

    Re: Dani K.

    I love your response! Our special attention for the veggie food group is inspired by similar experiences. I used to work in England at a Michelin Star restaurant where I was the vegetarian chef. There I had the challenge of coming up with numerous daily specials, menu items for the a la carte menu, prix fix menus and the wrap arounds for our entrees.

    Besides our experiences and that of vegetarians, I wonder what other experiences have inspired people to recognize creativity in vegetarian cuisine.

    Re: Mary Astudillo

    That’s exactly what I’m looking for in a good dish—accompaniments that not only complement the main component, but are equally as creative!

    Re: Dave Gracer

    Great Comments!

    About your first point, I believe that restaurants that dismiss the veggie eating portion of the population are actually thinning their market rather than catering to it. Restaurants like the ones I mention in the article and probably the ones that Ellen mentions in her comment are teaming with not only vegetarians, but their meat-eating friends too. This is because these groups are not exclusive. People don’t pick their friends based on their eating or dining habits so a restaurant would be better suited to cater to both at the same time.

    I too would love to see some statistics on this; however I don’t know how accurate they would be since many vegetarians who would eat out don’t because of the limited selection.

  13. Stephanie says:

    Interesting article here and I agree. At one point in my life, while dealing with a health crisis I decided to detox by going Macrobiotic for 6 months which dramtically changed how I ate. I now eat far less red meat as I see how my body responds to it. I had to forget about eating out for the most part. I think chefs need to recognize that some of their diners will be looking for meatless dishes. Even if it means having an option of a grilled portobello instead of a burger. Due to the fact that I eat less meat, when I go to a BBQ I often bring meatless hot dogs or portobellos along with the container from the salad bar into which I pour Newman’s Own Balsamic Vinaigrette and then grill them. As the sole person on a reunion committee this fall @ URI, I have planned a buffet which will include 3 salads, a chicken dish, a fish dish, a pasta w/veggies dish, rice/veg so that vegetarians will not feel that they are shelling out money and will be unable to eat anything. Personally, I have always found that chinese, japanese, thai places have many options for vegetarians. Anyone wanting to see just how creative it can be to eat vegetarian for a week, head on up to Kripalu in the Berkshires — that is all they serve.

  14. Chef Branden Lewis says:

    Hey Stephanie,

    Thanks for the comments. I’m going to check out Kripalu in the Berkshires!

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