Waffle Jones
July 21, 2008 by Chef Branden Lewis
Filed under Food & Drink, Soup to Nuts
Sometimes I get to jonsen’ over the silliest things. This week the craving has been for waffles. Please don’t mistake this for a trip to IHOP—I’m talking serious waffles. Dreams of them in savory flavors, not just sweet, have been mixing in my head for days. These waffle fantasies consist of various shapes, thicknesses, ingredients, seasonings and food pairings with dishes they were never meant to meet.
Depending on how a waffle batter is made, it could be the starch component to a balanced dinner, the bread to an artisan sandwich, a caramel filled snack to enjoy with coffee (like the Dutch’s stroopwafel) or as you know the main component to an all American breakfast. It’s all American indeed too! Waffles after all, were introduced to the Americas by the pilgrims themselves.
I’m not the first to have waffle fever of course. Jáce Gáce is a café in Portland, Oregon whose bread-and-butter consists of more than waffles-and-butter, but rather exotic waffle preparations inspired by sandwiches. Their selections range from smoked salmon, cream cheese and caper waffles to curry asparagus topped concoctions and even huevos rancheros waffles—poached eggs, black beans, spicy rancheros sauce and all! Am I crazy or does that just sound delicious?!
Supposedly, even the Deep South has tapped into the waffle’s hidden abilities. The combination of chicken fried or not, with waffles, butter and syrup has become somewhat of a novelty to Southern Cuisine with uniquely mysterious origins. According to folklore and numerous erroneous sources, a strange combination of plantation workers from Africa, Thomas Jefferson’s favorite waffle iron, and a Sunday morning hankering for chicken is what started the whole thing. Founding Fathers or not, chicken paired with waffles is collecting steam in modern times through a few restaurants that have themed themselves after the idea. Another west coast restaurant, Roscoe’s House of Chicken ‘n Waffles is one of the most notable.
So now if the fever is catching, you may be asking yourself, where oh where do I find some out-of-the-box (but not literally) waffles in the Providence area? Despite my best efforts, and excellent showings of amazing sweet waffles at J.P. Spoonem’s (check out their delectable double chocolate waffle), Brickway on Wickenden, and Modern Diner (pictured above, their delicious Belgium covered in macerated fruits, whipped topping and creamy scoops of zabaglione), I can’t find anyone using these formed flapjacks as a bases for sandwiches, pizzas, or other savory offerings. It’s easy to understand why though. It takes a long time to cook a single waffle on an iron. Imagine being a breakfast diner chef with two irons and a handful of exotically topped waffle orders. By the time you’re finished poaching eggs, preparing multiple sauces and melting cheesy toppings, your guests will probably have mutinied over to Dunkin’ Donuts for a sausage, egg and cheese sandwich on a ‘waffleless,’ lifeless, and oh so typical… croissant.
So for now it looks as though we’ll have to stop ‘waffling’ around (sorry) and don the aprons ourselves to kill this waffle craving—which is exactly what I did. My waffle binge began with the search for the savory waffles, which as I mentioned turned out to just sweeten my tooth for more. Then, after learning about this fried chicken and waffle thing, I took the plunge and tried it for myself. In the photos far above you can plainly see the amazingly bright, contrasting colors of buffalo orange and buckwheat brown… um… yeah, okay, they don’t look all that colorful, but the pairing actually works well… in a strange, syrup in place of blue cheese, sort of way. Afterward, I had just enough juice left to hit this Southern delicacy with a new angle. First, I made a simple Creole cream sauce with kielbasa, onions, artichokes, mushrooms, and Cajun spices simmered in cream and tossed with fresh scallions, diced tomatoes and pepper jack cheese. Then, I mixed together a savory herb and cheese waffle recipe I found on the internet (yes, even chefs sometimes turn to the internet for a quick recipe), followed by a half of chicken breast, Cajun seasoned and fried.
After plating these components together with some grilled zucchini and getting my first taste, I came to the immediate, heart-stopping, mind-blowing conclusion that I’ve been eating a lot of waffles lately! Beyond that however, the dish went together well with the exception of the sauce acting as another bland color while simultaneously making the waffles go soggy too soon. This is nothing against the sauce, on-the-contrary, it was the best part of the mix. I’m not discouraged though; I will continue experimenting with different savory waffle concoctions and will be posting them in the near future. Part of my waffle madness also possessed me to order a pizzelle waffle iron which will allow me to try out some stroopwafels. Savory or sweet these are quite the treat!
Most traditional waffles I’ve had turned to be too sweet for my taste (ja, easy on the stroop). Finally!! Savory waffles. Any tasting soon, hmm?
Wow!! Waffles have a whole new meaning for me now. Coming from India never looked at waffles in this new light. Considering the one at iHop tastes so yummy to me I am now curious to try out some new ones.
Maybe I should throw a waffle party?
BYOB (bring your own batter).
As a chef myself, I often turn to the Internet for recipes. Especially when I am away from my home library. I must admit though, this is the most knowledge I have seen on the topic of waffles in one posting. I personally do not like plain waffles and have never thought to make them savory. They all sound delicious and have flooded my mind with new ideas for breakfast entrees.
I must say, the waffles with fruit and cream look the best to me!
I love breakfast foods of all sorts, so to hear about your variations on the waffle is very exciting to me! I just tried this one restaurant in Seattle called the Blue Star Cafe and they do a bunch of different waffles, including bacon, ham, and this oatmeal waffle (which tastes like a bowl of oatmeal only slightly crispy!). I’m still searching for a place that offers savory waffles around Seattle…if you hear of anything please let me know! I look forward to your future posting about savory waffle applications. Thanks!
I never had a waffle that wasn’t sweet…intersting. Now if I could only find a local place that will make them for me I’d be all set. Or maybe Chef Branden could hook us up with that new waffle iron of his???!!! Branden?
You have added so many flavors to my already waffled life!…. I can’t wait to try the new varieties now. Am I invited to the new waffle iron warming party?
Wow, maybe I really should have a waffle iron warming party, that’s a great idea Divya & Bernice! I’ll keep you posted on when and where… as for now, and in regards to Dani K’s comment, I want to griddle up some bacon and ham waffles and then try out an oatmeal waffle recipe–that sounds especially delicious!
Re: Gregory Astudillo. I completely agree on the library thing. Too often I’m at work and the book I need is at home, or vice versa. Thank god for the internet when you’re in a pinch.
Our friends hold an annual pancake contest party where the host provides batter and guests bring their choice of toppings. Winners are elected by votes from each category (surely one of them is the wackiest topping category). Just throwing in a idea…
Oh my! I have such a hankering for some waffles now!!! Chicken ‘n’ waffles is the best combination treat for me. In the south, there is a place named The Waffle House, and I tell you, they make the best waffles ever and they don’t take that long to prepare, but even if you wait awhile, it’s worth it. Gladys Knight has a really a good chicken ‘n’ waffle joint too.
Thanks for making my mouth drool at 1:24am. LOL. I gotta go eat now….
I want some now, but where can I get them????. Since a trip to the west caost or the south is not in my forseeable future to taste these lovley waffles,where could I try them?
However, Providence is on my daily schedule, any suggestions Chef Branden?
That waffle and crispy wings look delicious. Where can I get those around here? The sweetness of the waffle with the savory and cripsy texture of the wings are perfect match. Maybe I’ll add a touch of hot sauce on the wings. YUM!
Try Broadway Bistro, kids - they’re doing a chicken and waffles that is DELISH! on the westside…
re: Min
I just check out Gladys’ website for the chicken n’ waffles restaurant you mentioned, and would you believe that it looks nearly identical to Roscoes?! I wonder if there’s a connection besides matching themes.
Re: EATprovidence
I’ll definitely check them out, I’ve been meaning to! What’s funny is that I didn’t know they had chicken and waffles at all.
Re: Everyone
Waffle party invitations will be emailed to you shortly, be prepared for an evening of syrup intoxication!
Thanks for all the comments!
When’s the waffle party? Sweet and savory waffles… mix it up and get all crazy! Going with the good ole South’s ability to fry anything… how about a stuffed fried waffle? Don’t forget the side of fried meat with extra gravy… yummmmmm!
You are so thoughtful – I enjoyed reading this – I have had waffles at Brickway and Modern Diner – they are exquisite. Perhaps you will produce a new breakthrough – I am looking forward to sample it. Yum Yum.
PAz